Watches Tonight with Tim Mosso returns for a discussion of Rolex, IWC, Sinn, F.P. Journe, and even Grand Seiko watches. Tim discusses the rarity of precious metal silver watches, answers viewer questions about cars, and reviews the watchmaking technology of greatest relevance to watch buyers. All of this and watch collector wrist shots appear on this evening’s episode of Watches Tonight. Why are gold and even platinum watches common but sterling silver watches are almost unheard of? Tim explores this question while referencing the history of pocket watches and early wristwatches that led to the retirement of precious metal silver as a common watch case material. The arrival of watchmaking stainless steels in the 1920s and 1930s allowed watch brands to replace silver as a mass-market rust resistant metal option.
In the modern era, watches from Cartier, Och Und Junior, U-Boat, Dubey and Schaldenbrand, F.P. Journe, and Zenith have employed sterling silver for reasons of novelty, nostalgia, and cost-effective fabrication.
Cars are a frequent topic on this show, but Tim rarely discusses automobiles as a primary feature of the program. That changes tonight thanks to a viewer question about the host’s favorite cars. Tim’s preferred vintage option is the 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado; his “driver’s car” selection would be a Consulier GTP or Panoz AIV Roadster; as a daily driver, Tim dreams of upgrading his Chevy Volt to a Karma Revero GT.
This evening’s main feature is a review of watchmaking technologies that are most relevant to watch buyers. A list of the most “worthwhile” technologies for watch enthusiasts starts with Seiko and Grand Seiko’s brilliant “Spring Drive” technology, a fusion of mechanical and quartz movement engineering that embodies the best elements of both. The discussion continues with Sinn Spezialuhren’s “Tegiment” steel hardening that employs carbon diffusion (carburized steel) in order to create steel watch cases with the scratch resistance of ceramic.
Rolex’s Parachrom Blue antimagnetic hairsprings are an ideal blend of lifetime-serviceable traditional watchmaking with technology that hardens watches against modern office and home electronics. The niobium-zirconium Parachrom Blue alloy uses a composition similar to the 1989-1992 IWC Ingeniuer 3508 “500,000 A/M,” so it is likely that Rolex’s claims of magnetic resistance are conservative.
Silicon finds its place in the program thanks to Breguet’s brilliant magnetic balance pivots. Use of powerful magnets inside a watch requires antimagnetic technology alongside; a silicon hairspring and escapement permit Breguet to improve the friction and shock resistant qualities inside of its Classique Chronometrie 7727.
Jaeger LeCoultre’s “welded sapphire” minute repeater gong completes this summary review of the most worthwhile watch technology for watch enthusiasts.
Tonight, our show will feature all of the above plus live chat and wrist shots from our global audience of watch buyers, watch collectors, and watch enthusiasts!
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